Sunday, June 24, 2018

Scenic Drive: Guardsman Pass Big Cottonwood Canyon To Park City

Guardsman Pass is a high pass (elevation: 9717 feet) situated between between Big Cottonwood Canyon and the Heber Valley or Park City. It is a very pretty scenic drive with several opportunities for hiking or for taking pictures. It is really spectacular in the fall as well. As with most of our scenic drive adventures, many of the pictures will be Drive By Photography (DBP) shots. This is me in the passenger seat taking pictures. I don’t think I could get a good picture while driving safely, even if I wanted to. Let alone on a windy mountain road. So, Landis drives, I take pictures.

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Scenic Drive Details:

Length: About 47 miles. From the mouth of Big Cottonwood to the mouth of Parleys.
Time Needed: 1.5 - 2 hours for the drive, plus hiking and sightseeing.
Road Conditions: 2 Lane well paved and graded to steep thin but paved, to 4 lane freeway.
Summit: 9717 feet.
Restrooms: facilities in Brighton and Park City. pit toilet below the pass on the BCC side.
Interesting Things: In Big Cottonwood Canyon there are numerous things to explore. For an easy nature trail with a good chance of seeing a moose stop by Silver Lake. While there if you want to get away from the crowds head up to Twin Lakes or Lake Solitude. A couple other options near the top of the canyon are Lake Mary and Willow Lake. At Guardsman Pass there is Bloods Lake. You know, we have not explored trails in Park City very much but we passed a few trailheads.
Other Info: the pass is closed in winters and can be dangerous during a summer storm.

To Get Here:

Either head up Big Cottonwood Canyon, and then up guardsman Pass Road, or head up Park City Mountain Resort then head over over Empire Pass.

The Drive:

We decided to start in Big Cottonwood Canyon today.

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Heading up Big Cottonwood Canyon (DBP).

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Nearing the top (DBP).

Look for the turn off on the left for Guardsman Pass Road. If you miss it, just do the loop around Brighton and hit it on the way back (now on the right). It won’t add much.

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Now on the Guardsman Pass road (DBP).

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As far as high mountain passes go it’s not too bad (DBP) The worst part is at the actual pass.

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I even managed to get a shot of the view back down in Big Cottonwood Canyon this time (DBP).

Guardsman Pass itself has a small parking lot and does have a nice view so it is worth the stop.

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The view into the Heber Valley from Guardsman Pass.

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The parking area at Guardsman Pass has gotten increasingly crowded over the years. It’s a zoo up here today! Most people tend to go down to Bloods Lake from here. Its a beautiful lake as well, but is getting a little crowded lately.

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Loads and loads of wildflowers up at the pass this time of year.

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Today we decided to hike down to Shadow Lake. That was quite the adventure!

After our hike we continued our scenic drive down.

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The Heber Valley again.

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Below the pass. It is quite steep and quite a ways down so keep an eye on your little ones.

Back to the scenic drive.

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Heading down into the Heber Valley (DBP). I have read that there are sections near the pass that are not paved. That does not appear to be the case anymore.

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Nice view from here (DBP)

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Not far beyond the pass the road gets a little less scary.

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Pretty mountains (DBP).

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Fork (DBP). about 1 3/4 miles below the pass there will be a fork in the road. Right will continue into the Heber Valley towards Midway. Left will go over Empire Pass into Park City. That is the way we went today.

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Heading back up (DBP).

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Quick glimpse of Jordanelle (DBP).

I didn’t get a pic of Empire Pass as we went over it. It is at about 9700 feet.

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Heading down through Park City Mountain Resort (DBP).

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The road on this side of Empire Pass is steep and windy but not many scary parts (DBP).

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Pretty (DBP).

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Hitting Park City proper (DBP).

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We decided to stop at Squatters for a nice dinner. we burned more calories than expected today and they make a mean burger! Actually, just about everything I have ever tried here I have enjoyed.

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Monument from the Olympics.

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Now we are on i80 and back up to normal freeway speeds (DBP).

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Almost to Parleys Summit (DBP). At only 7120 feet high it is the lowest of the 3 passes on the trip.

Random useless info, it is the highest point on i80 within Utah.

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Coming down the other side (DBP).

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I’m not a big fan of driving down Parleys Canyon, but it is pretty (DBP).

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Nearing the bottom.

Well, that was a nice scenic drive with a great hike as well! It is definitely one of the shorter scenic drives around here, but it is lovely and a great way to experience our wonderful canyons.

Shadow Lake

Shadow Lake is a gorgeous lake above Park City Mountain Resort. It is a pretty green lake with a stunning mountain backdrop and you have a good chance of seeing wildlife. Because the trail is a little longer and more strenuous it definitely offers a lot more solitude than most of the nearby lakes. The trail guide I used said the best route to it is actually from Guardsman Pass so we headed that way.

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Quick Details:

Length: 5.44 Miles round trip if you go the right way. I saw that you can make a 4 mile loop so there might be an easier way than what we did.
Difficulty: DR4 it had some steep segments that were definitely a climb.
Elevation Gain: 1082 feet on the return trip.
Restroom: They had porta pottys up at Guardsman Pass today, but normally the closest one would be a little way down the road on the Big Cottonwood Canyon side.
Dogs? Yes, BUT you will need to take a side trail to stay out of the watershed boundary.
Other Info: This trail starts at the top and the return trip is uphill. This can be challenging for some people.
You can also get here from Park City but from what I can tell that is a 12-15 mile hike.

To Get Here:

Drive to the top of Big Cottonwood Canyon, take the turn off for Guardsman Pass, park at the pass.

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The view into the Heber Valley from Guardsman Pass.

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The parking area at Guardsman Pass has gotten increasingly crowded over the years. It’s a zoo up here today! Most people tend to go down to Bloods Lake from here. Its a beautiful lake as well, but is getting a little crowded lately.

The Trail:

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The trailhead is on the north side of the pass (across the road from the parking lot).

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I didn’t get a picture of it today, so I borrowed one from another trip. Anyway if you brought your dogs, you need to climb the thin trail across from this up to the small peak.

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Otherwise you have 2 options. However, learn from my mistake today. You want to take the Scotts Bypass trail. We followed the wider old jeep road to the top and then scrambled down a very steep trail from there. I will include our little mis-adventure here, but I would bump this route up to a DR5. It was pretty rough. If you want to skip the rough trail and follow the easier route back up you can skip that and follow our route back Here.

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Pretty wildflowers.

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This old jeep trail is nice and wide and a gradual climb.

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Looking down Big Cottonwood Canyon.

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The wildflowers are definitely in full bloom right now!

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Looking across the canyon.

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The peak above Bloods Lake, I believe it is called peak 10420 or something like that.

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Penstemon.

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I am between this being Lake Mary or Twin Lakes leaning more towards Twin Lakes because it’s higher up, and, now that I think about it, you can see across the canyon from there as well.

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A little closer.

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Guardsman Pass Road.

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Popies.

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Daisies.

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Entering a nice forest.

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We reached a small sub peak along the ridge line. I think we were supposed to turn left here and follow the ridge down to Scotts Pass, but well, we didn’t do that.

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Top of the Jupiter Ski Lift behind us. This is where you will come down if you have dogs.

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Nice view from up here.

We found what appeared to be a well traveled trail down and assumed that was the way we needed to go. Well, it got us there, but it went straight down the side of the mountain.

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Park City below.

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Geranium

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Columbine.

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Nice forest again.

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It was about this point that I questioned our trail choice and considered turning back. But hoped that maybe it was just this short section.

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View out. Check out that giant mine tailing!

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First view of the lake.

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Another columbine. I don’t think I have ever seen one with purple on it before.

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Vivid orange paintbrush. Wow.

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Wildflower covered mountainside. Wildflower season is definitely in full swing.

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Different species of paintbrush.

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Lupine.

Even though we were going downhill, it was a lot of work at the steep angle so we needed to take a break.

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We stumbled upon an old mine. Neat! I didn’t want to get too close to this one as it seemed to go down quite steeply. I sure did not want to fall in, let alone get stuck.

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Before now, the trail generally stayed a little south of The Jupiter Lift. After here it will more or less follow it down.

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Chipmunk!

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It would appear some skier had a bad time here.

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Pretty flower.

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We’re so close!

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It looks like that cliff is melting.

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Pretty view.

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I kept thinking the trail had to get easier eventually well, it just didn’t oi.

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Clematis.

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Looking back up the slope we are working our way down.

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We finally made it down to the main path which was a lot more level. I almost kissed the ground here I was so happy to not be on such a steep slope anymore.

It looks like either way will get you to the lake, but the way I was aware of was to the right, so we went that way.

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Much happier trail! Although, now we just have to be on the lookout for mountain bikers.

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Getting some quick peeks of the lake between the trees.

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Pretty!

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Hitting a band of aspens.

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The sign at this intersection says the Shadow Lake Trail is forward, but, I know the lake is to the left. it must be pointing to the trailhead.

As an aside, the guide I used said you can make a loop by returning on the trail to the right here. We didn’t do that today though.

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Heading down a little more.

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Finally, the lake! It is so beautiful and peaceful here.

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Beautiful clear water.

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Panoramic.

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The peak we scrambled down from.

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Another panoramic.

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Gorgeous clouds.

We found some nice rocks to sit on and enjoy the view. We had been watching the lake for a while now and hadn’t seen any sign of life other than water skeeters. I thought we might see some salamanders, but it wasn’t looking like the case today. When suddenly:

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Well, that snake has something…

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Well, that is certainly something you don’t see everyday. It’s got a salamander! That seems like awful large prey for such a small snake.

I love salamanders, and this makes me a little sad, but I mean, it’s nature. I like snakes too, and they gotta eat. I love bunnies, but I also like hawks.Circle of life and all.

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We eventually decided our presence was probably keeping the snake from hauling it’s catch ashore, so I decided to explore around the lake.

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We eventually did spot some salamanders that were not current prey.

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The lake again.

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Another panoramic.

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Another salamander.

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Flowers in front of the lake.

Well we had our fun but decided it was time to head on back. We actually had the lake to ourselves for quite some time. It was fantastic.

There is a service road on the south side of the lake that we thought might lead to where we were going, Scotts Pass (our intended route out), but we were not sure. Now that I am home and looking at it I can confirm it does so you can make a little loop if you want.

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More flowers.

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The bottom of the Jupiter Lift near the north side of the lake.

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Back to the 4 way intersection. Left will head down to Park City Mountain Resort, forward should get you back, but we haven't done that. We went right towards Scotts Pass.

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Into the tree tunnel!

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The lake from above.

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Looking up at the peaks above.

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Another purple tinted columbine.

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The path we came down. Going down it was rough enough, I had absolutely no intention of climbing it. But I mean, if you are part mountain goat, go for it.

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Eventually you hit a nice meadow.

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More pretty flowers.

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Oh we stumbled upon some deer.

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Continuing along the meadow. I understand this meadow is known for moose sightings. No moose today, but keep your heads up.

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Back into the woods!

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Elkweed.

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Hitting a band of aspens.

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Eventually we hit a trail split. The sign says Shadow Lake to the right. So, that confirms the loop, I am still not sure if it was the shorter option, but it probably was. oi. Anyway, to get to Scotts Pass, take the left split. After this split there will be several trails that cross the path (or one that is switch-backing up) just keep generally forward until you hit the pass.

This is also where you really start climbing again.

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More geraniums.

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Not sure what these are. Best guess is avalanche control devices of some sort.

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One of the few trails that crosses the trail up to Scotts Pass. Since this seems to be popular with bicyclists I am guessing this is a fun bike path.

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Little bit of snow up on that peak.

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Almost to the pass.

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Scotts Pass! Phew! okay, we are done with most of the climb. Anyway, this is a neat pass. Park City Mountain Resort behind me, Big Cottonwood Canyon in front and to the left, and Mill Creek Canyon to the right (well, after a little ways I imagine).

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The trail towards Mill Creek Canyon.

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Trail down into Scotts Bowl. Might have to check that out one day. Doesn’t look too long, but not sure how steep it is.

Reminder: No dogs down that way.

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The Scotts Bypass Trail. Okay, I know that let out back where we started so that is the route we took. The trail to the left I think is what the guide I used recommended, it looks a bit shorter and should keep you on the Park City side of the ridge (no watershed rules) if you have dogs with you. But, I am not sure how steep it is.The trail we took on the right does veer into Big Cottonwood Canyon so no dogs.

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Into the trees again.

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You can make out a snow line.

This trail is popular for downhill bicyclists so keep your head up.

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And don’t forget to look up.

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I believe these are lodge pole pines.

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View out. I believe that is Scotts Hill.

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Mixed forest.

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Really hitting the aspens.

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Old growth section.

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I am really loving this trail.

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Nice view across the canyon.

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View down the canyon.

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Panoramic.

While I was enjoying the view suddenly I heard a very sharp hiss and saw rapid movement below.

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Apparently this mother grouse had lost her patience with me standing near her and she sent off her babies and went into fight mode. I wasn’t quick enough to get the babies because well, I had gone into my own fight or flight mode for a quick second trying to figure out what was hissing and coming at me. The funny thing is, I honestly probably would not have even noticed her if she hadn’t gone into fight mode.

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We backed up quite a bit hoping she would bugger off, but she was standing her ground.

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in an effort to reduce stressing her out we just made the decision to pass by as quickly as possible. Sorry momma, but I would like to get home too!

Still kind of bummed I didn’t catch the babies. It was neat to watch them scatter though.

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Better view of Scotts Hill.

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Into another band of aspens.

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Super beautiful through here.

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Peak 10,420.

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There are a couple of switch backs here, but they aren’t bad at all.

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Twin Lakes across the canyon.

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Peak 10,420 again.

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Another band of aspens.

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There are so many wildflowers up here!

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Don’t forget to look up.

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I love aspen forests.

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More wildflowers.

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Now we just need to make our way around that hill back to Guardsman Pass.

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Guardsman Pass Road below Peak 10420.

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Back to the ridge where we can see down into Park City again.

The trail we took and the ridge trail cross paths here as well. You can climb up the ridge to the peak, or stay right and go around it. Since we didn’t have the dogs we opted for the easy route around.

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Twin Lakes again.

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Almost there.

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Looking down Big Cottonwood Canyon.

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Elkweed.

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Little closer. Very pretty flowers.

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One last small forest section.

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Some Clarks Nutcrackers making a bit of a ruckus.

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Back to Guardsman Pass.

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Walking down to the car we passed this wildflower covered hillside.

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Penstemon.

Even though it was a little tougher, and a littler longer than I had planned I really enjoyed that trail. We didn’t run in to a lot of people and even had the lake to ourselves for quite some time. We didn’t see any moose today, but did see deer, salamanders, birds, a snake and a grouse with her babies. The scenery was incredible and I loved the thick forests. I will remove 1 squirrel for difficulty, and 1 more for the confusing mess of trails. 8 out of 10 squirrels.

8 Squirrels

As for difficulty, if you stay on Scotts Bypass to Scotts pass and then down, it will be a good 4. Definitely a climb, with some rocky parts but not too horrible. if you decided to take the mountain goat route we did on the way down, I would bump that up to a DR5.

As for dogs, I am going to mark this one as a no. The path I recommend crosses into Big Cottonwood Canyon, which is watershed. If you do want to bring Fido along, you will need to ensure you take the route that stays in Park City Mountain Resort. or maybe try the alternate route 

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